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Pinot -- with a Caribbean twist
By Sheila Flanagan
from Salem Monthly, Section Wine
Posted on Tue Oct 30, 2007 at 04:44:00 PM PDT

Across the continent from America's largest Cuban community, nestled in the hills west of Salem, may be America's only Cuban winemakers. Mauricio Collada, owner of Cubanisimo Vineyards, blends his love of Cuban culture with his passion for the Willamette Valley's Pinot noir.

The hot Cuban weather, combined with extremely fertile soil, makes the production of wine grapes in Cuba a tricky proposition.

Collada, who emigrated from Cuba with his family when he was nine years old, became interested in winemaking while he was a medical resident. Lured to wine lectures by free food he developed a fascination for Burgundy. However, it wasn't until he moved to Salem to work as a neurosurgeon that his love of wine found an outlet.


"Within six months of moving here, I found out about the wine industry."

Collada was excited to discover the burgeoning Pinot noir industry in the Willamette Valley. Like many winemakers, Collada talks with enthusiasm of the unique combination of factors which make the Willamette Valley an ideal location for growing Pinot noir grapes. Collada bought his property in the Eola Hills in 1986. In 1991, he built the house and began to put in the vineyard.  

For the first several years Cubanisimo Vineyards grew Pinot noir grapes that were sold to area winemakers, but Collada's ultimate goal was to make his own wine. When the time to create a product came,  he recognized he had a choice.  

"I could compete directly with other Pinot noir growers in the Willamette Valley, or find my niche, and they will notice me."

South Florida, where Collada grew up, provided the perfect niche for Cubanisimo. Collada utilized the strong family and friendship connections he'd maintained in South Florida to market his wine to the Cuban community.

Collada sought to produce a light- to medium-bodied Pinot noir that strikes the mid-palate range typical of Cuban food. Cuban food, like Cuban culture, evolved primarily from Spanish and African influences, incorporating Caribbean products. Spices that are more aromatic than hot are a contribution of Africa. Rice dishes are representative of Spain. The fruit flavors, especially pineapple, are natural to Cuba's Caribbean environment.  

That same goal of matching Cuban food held true when it came to making their Pinot gris. Collada felt that Pinot gris would match some of the lighter Cuban fish dishes. Initially he bought Pinot gris grapes from other growers, but he recently planted clones and will soon produce Pinot gris with grapes from his own vineyard.
How well does Collada feel he has met his goal of matching Cuban food?  

"If I were to judge by how we've done in South Florida, I've done very well. The consumer is the ultimate judge."      

Currently, half of his wine production goes to South Florida. Cubanisimo Vineyards has established something of a following there. Cuban Americans sometimes make a pilgrimage to Cubanisimo Vineyards. The day of our interview, two Florida couples on a tour of Canada had made a detour to Salem especially to visit Cubanisimo.  At the end of their visit, a gentleman promised Collada that he would spread the word in South Florida.

Cubanisimo's tasting room opened in the spring of 2007. From April through Labor Day the tasting room is open on weekends 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. From Labor Day to April, it is open by appointment.  Over the Thanksgiving holiday, the tasting room will be open from 12 to 5 p.m. Friday through Sunday.

Special events at Cubanisimo are infused with Cuban culture.  The Memorial Day and Labor Day festivities include salsa music and tapas. Salsa lessons are offered at Cubanisimo on a regular basis.   Collada would love to celebrate Cuban Independence Day, although it's close to Memorial Day so he might need to link them somehow.






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