By Ed Malles
from Salem Monthly, Section Wine
Posted on Wed Apr 30, 2008 at 08:59:58 PM PDT
Pinot gris is a grape and a wine that sometimes slips through the cracks. The whole valley takes well-deserved pride in its pinot noir, but what about this related vine?To start with, pinot gris is thought to be a mutant of the main pinot noir line. `Mutant' may seem a bit harsh, but it just means that the gris is an offshoot of the original noir. Genetic testing suggests that the mutation occurred centuries ago, and the gris rose up as a close relation, but with a differently colored grape and set of characteristics than its more widely known cousin.
And befitting a mutant, it has a fairly wide variability to it, in color (both of the grape and of the wine) and in flavor. If you've ever tried a pinot grigio, it's the same grape, just grown in Italy. Dig a little deeper into the growth of this grape, and you'll find it grown in most regions that can offer some coolness of climate. You'll notice a lot of variety in regional wines with this grape.
Oregon added a large bump to the regional popularity of this wine in the `90s when it began to be paired with salmon, and for a while many vineyards grew or offered a pinot gris. The uproar has died down some, but the pairing still works.
If you enjoy it, experiment further. Try gris with a cheese sampler, or an antipasto plate. If you don't feel like your regular Chardonnay with a savory chicken entrée, give gris a shot. Feel free to pair the sweeter types as you might a riesling or muscat.
Of course, it's hard to describe a varietal in just a few words, but here are a few tips about the nature of this wine. Usually golden to copper in color, with some even edging toward a pink color, this wine can be softer and sweeter or more dry, depending on the winemaker's taste. Most will usually have fruit overtones, such as apple or melon.
Eyrie Vineyards not only started pinot noir in the Valley, it also planted the first pinot gris grape in North America.
Emily Stoller Smith of Eyrie Vineyards had this to say about it:
"Pinot gris is a very food-friendly wine. As an alternative to a Chardonnay, it is usually lighter, brighter, and fresher-tasting. You almost always get some taste of a stone fruit with a pinot gris."
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