By Shawn Estes
from WillametteLive, Section Screen
Posted on Wed May 05, 2010 at 10:43:32 PM PDT
If there's one thing America knows how to do, it's eat. And talk about eating. And watch other people eat. Food is a staple of life, and not just in the physical sense.
There's a TV network dedicated to bringing us the likes of Emeril, Mario Batali, and Rachel Ray. It's not only that channel. FOX hosts Gordon Ramsay improving restaurants in "Kitchen Nightmares" or screaming at top chefs of his own in "Hell's Kitchen." As the organic food movement ramps up, it's likely that shows like Jamie Oliver's "Food Revolution" and, hopefully, more films like this month's Salem Progressive Film Series movie, "Good Food" will appear.
"Good Food" skillfully documents the people who grow, produce or raise food in the Pacific Northwest, ranging from Hilario Alvarez and his 100 varieties of peppers to Bluebird Grain Farms in Winthrop, Washington who grow and mill organic heirloom grains.
One of the farmers at Bluebird talks about a new pizza place opening up and calling the farm for flour. The flour that was delivered was milled the same day as the delivery, leaving the farmer to point out that there's no way that it could be any fresher. These farmers all harvest crops that are not poisoning the environment or, you know, killing people.
The interviews can make or break a documentary. In this one, the anecdotal stories like the flour delivery mentioned previously are combined with more educational interviews with college professors and activists from the Tilth Association. The editing of the film works very well in this regard, bouncing from farmers going about their day's work to others talking about the industry. The educator's segments were edited so as to avoid becoming too verbose, and the activists aren't heard taking potshots at big-box stores, enough so that I had to stifle a cheer when one of the farmers mentioned Wal-Mart in a negative light. With just one mention of the foibles of major grocery store chains, I was left wanting a little more blood in the water.
Instead the focus stays on the farm, with a great deal of information on farmers' markets, and a little time spent on restaurants that are adding the foods to their menus.
It's almost entirely Washington-based, with Oregon making small appearances. New Seasons Market in Portland is featured, which is great because Whole Foods tends to take away their steam. New Seasons carries a number of products whose farms are featured in the film. Salem isn't mentioned at all.
After my screening, the local places that I take for granted, like Salem Public Market or Salem Saturday Market, seemed a little more magical. The vendors there are picking their own foods and serving the community in a very special way. Also on the semi-local front, Burgerville is also known for their work in maintaining good working relationships with local farmers. So I'll have my next chocolate hazelnut milkshake with a little less guilt.
The film is being screened on May 13 at Grand Theater. The film is followed by guest speakers Steven Perkins of Cascade Baking Company and Karl Kupers, an expert on sustainable farming. "Good Food" is also available on DVD through Bullfrog Films.