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Eating locally in the winter
By Nate Rafn
from Salem Monthly, Section Dining
Posted on Mon Dec 31, 2007 at 10:28:48 PM PDT

The Willamette Valley has a fairly short growing season. From May until November we are blessed with a plethora of local fruit and vegetables.
But if you walk in to Salem Public Market on a Saturday morning, you'll notice that farmers have much less to offer than in summer months.

"We don't have a whole lot during the winter time. In January I'll have local hazelnuts, prunes, and homemade pies. That's about it," said Esther White, owner of White's Produce in Gervais.

White is one of a handful of farmers who rents a booth at the market. Sloan Aagaard is another. She owns Teal Creek Farms, 12 miles west of Monmouth and faces the same problems.

"In grocery stores people don't really know where their food is coming from. People come in here in May and ask why we don't have fresh corn," Aagaard said.

Oddly enough, this is exactly how it should be. The solution is not to drive to the mega-mart and buy produce from California. We need to eat what is available and, ultimately, what is in season.
Autumn brings hearty fare, such as apples, winter squash and starchy roots. These items have a relatively long shelf life and are ideal for winter storage.

John Zeilinski, owner of E.Z. Orchards, is able to store his own apples and pears until early spring. E.Z. Orchards Farm Market also has an impressive selection of fresh local vegetables during the winter months.

"I buy a lot of vegetables from local growers. If it's in season locally, I buy it local," said Zeilinski. "In January we'll have local onions, potatoes, beets, turnips, parsnips, carrots, and cabbage."

For Teal Creek Farms, proper storage is imperative.

"We have a hay shed that we store the potatoes in," Aagaard said. "We keep them on pallets and cover them so they don't sprout. We try to keep them through March."

The delightful reality is that local products are available all year, even in the dead of winter. It's just a matter of wading through the bananas and pineapples to find them.

How to prepare winter veggies
Winter squash and root vegetables are fairly versatile. Roasting (or baking) is very common.

The high heat and concentration of natural sugars brings their sweet qualities to the forefront. This method is simple and maintains the true flavor of the vegetable.

Soups, stews, and braised dishes are also good options.

Apples and pears, like root vegetables, can hold their shape after heat has been applied. For this reason, they are well-suited for poaching whole or baking in pies and tarts.

Whatever you decide to do, just remember­ -- food tastes better when you have some fun with it.

Where to shop:
*Salem Public Market
*E.Z. Orchards Farm Market
*Roth's Fresh Markets
*Ask your nearby grocer, farmer or gardener.

For more on local foods

This month, tune in to Living Culture on CCTV, cable channel 22. We'll share recipes for braised beef shank with roots and apple crumb pie. Our guests include Dennis Kroeker, John Zeilinski, and Steve Morton.

Living Culture airs on Thursdays 8 p.m., Fridays 5:30 p.m., and Sundays 1 p.m. More information can be found at livingcultureonline.com.




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