Whether a restaurant is a tried-and-true veteran of the scene with a strong following built upon generations, or an up-and-coming establishment trying to prove itself in an ever-changing market, local establishments truly have a lot to offer.

These businesses work hard to provide good food in a pleasant atmosphere at a reasonable price, and in doing so they become a part of the community, the culture, and the history and future of Salem, as well as something more.

They become a part of our lives.

Old friends

When speaking of the history of dining in Salem, you have to speak of White's.

White's restaurant is among the oldest dining establishments in Salem. It is a tradition that dates back to 1936 when Charles and Myrtle White, along with their sons Bob and Ken, opened the Restaurant at 1138 Commercial Street.

Specializing in family food and dining, the restaurant offered a warm and relaxing atmosphere and hearty meat-and-potatoes fare at reasonable prices.

Over the years, the restaurant maintained its popularity and location. The White family continued to operate the establishment for almost 60 years, until 1995 when Don Uselman and his family took the helm.

Uselman wanted to keep tradition alive and well at White's. He maintained not only the family atmosphere, but also the family-oriented approach to operating the business, including his own family in the daily operation of the business.
In fact, today Don's son Thomas manages the restaurant.

Thomas will tell you that at White's, their specialty is still very much in keeping with what it has always been.

"We are still definitely a very family-oriented restaurant," he said. "We serve food like you would expect from your grandma. We take pride in that. In fact, we still have recipes we use now that the restaurant has used since it first opened."

When asked about changes in the dining scene in Salem, Thomas said that many factors such as infrastructure and location play a part. He has a picture that shows the corner of Owens and Commercial, where the restaurant is still located, with a sign pointing to Albany and Portland.

"This used to be the main highway running through town. I have customers that tell me this used to be the place to be. It was a hangout for high school kids."

Thomas said that change is a major factor in the business. No restaurant is able to survive without the ability to change.

"A large part of our longevity is our quality, consistency, friendly-feeling, family-oriented atmosphere and service. Service is a main factor; we have customers come in and we have their coffee waiting and we know what they want.

"White's counts on its people and its long-standing clientele. Generations have passed through White's and they continue to do so. We have regulars that will come in through the back door, and we like it that way. But if you do come through the back door, you have to say hello to the cook."

When asked what advice he would give newer restaurants, he cited the ability to change and communicate with the customer.

"New restaurants have to stick it out and look ahead to the long run. Nothing happens over night. We are still changing and adapting here at White's. Change is a necessity."

The Westgate Café is another long-standing tradition in Salem dining. Established in 1953, the restaurant has served local residents for 55 years.

The café is currently located at 1311 Edgewater St. NW in the historic Kingwood building, which originated as the Kingwood Market in 1928.

Owned and operated by Annette Day for the last 13 years, under the name Annette's Westgate Cafe, the restaurant has become a well-known staple of Salem dining.

Annette says that the café is the heartbeat of the local community in West Salem. Long famous for its extensive breakfast menu and hearty portions, Annette's also offers lunch in a spacious, warmly lit, and inviting atmosphere that transforms in the evening to offer candlelit dining.

Annette describes the cafe as having a versatile blend of options that offers both upscale and affordable dining.

"We have choices to accommodate younger people as well as the health-conscious," she said. "We have a salad bar and healthy dinner choices also. I wanted to create a dining atmosphere that accommodated variety. In the evenings you can have an inexpensive dinner or an exquisite meal depending on your preference."

Annette's has also seen its fair share of change over the years. Besides the changes in location, fees and regulations for the industry, Annette said that she also has seen changes in customer expectations.

"Our customers expect more now than ever. They expect more for their money and they will not be satisfied with anything that is done halfway."
Annette said that communicating with customers and the ability to meet their changing needs was one of the elements she needed to succeed.

"You have to be able to change to meet customer's needs. I ask customers how I am doing all the time. If they are satisfied then I know that I am on the right track."

Annette also attributes the longevity of the restaurant to hard work and a positive attitude.

"I want this to be a happy place, and I feel that it is. I like to think that this café is a treasure in West Salem."

When asked what advice she would give to newer establishments, Annette offered this:

"If you survive the first year, you have a 50/50 chance of making it. If you survive three years you have made it, and if you survive five years you can begin to count on making a profit."
She added, however, that there was much more to owning a restaurant than just the business aspect.

"You have to do it for the love of people and the business," she said. "You will not get rich doing this, it is a bug that you get. It needs to be what you love to do above all else.

Another long-lived establishment in West Salem is
Morton's Bistro.

Morton's has enjoyed what will be a twenty-year run starting next year. Located at 1020 Edgewater Street, the restaurant is described by owner Steve Morton as a casual fine diner with a regionally reliant menu. Specializing in seafood and locally inspired cuisine, the bistro has a cozy atmosphere and a menu that changes three or four times a year depending on the availability of local products. The restaurant also boasts an extensive wine list that is known as the "Wall of Wine."  

"Our specialty is freshness," Steve said. "We sell everything wall-to-wall every week. We cook ala minute, which means in the minute. Also, the thing I enjoy working with the most is seafood, and that has to be fresh."

Born and raised in Salem, Steve said the main change he has seen in local dining is that the customer has become more educated and aware of the possibilities of food and wine. He said that he saw the advent of the Food Network and other culinary-related media sources as a main factor in this.

Steve credits his success to a variety of reasons.

"It takes stamina and perseverance and a love of what you do," he said. "I really love cooking. I have done it all in this business, from managing to bartending and I always wanted to open my own bistro where I could cook and be my own boss. This is the best job in the world. I honestly don't think I could find a better job."

When asked for advice for newer restaurants in the Salem area, he jokingly advised that they run.

"It has to be in your blood, you have to love to do it. We have seen our share of ups and downs. We have survived a flood and four or five recessions along the way as well as the current mortgage and fuel crisis. One thing I would say is that you better have a good biscuit recipe and you had better be willing to work it hard. It is a fun business, but it can also be a tremendous risk."

Chums

Just across the river, downtown, is another restaurant that has its place in Salem dining history.  

Marco Polo Global is a restaurant that has been on the scene for seven years. Although well known as a staple of downtown dining, the restaurant is trying something new.

Owners and operators Cathay and Jackie Cheung recently relocated to 300 Liberty Street to offer an expanded scope of dining as well as banquet and catering facilities. In its new location the restaurant offers diners a scenic view overlooking the fountains and water walk below Pringle Plaza.

Jackie Cheung says that Marco Polo's specialty is variety. The establishment offers a wide variety of cuisine, including Chinese, European, and vegetarian. They also offer gluten-free dietary choices.

Jackie said that one of the main reasons her family had decided to offer variety was a personal one.

"My son and I are vegetarian," she said. "My husband is not vegetarian. We wanted to do a wide variety and make sure that everyone in the family had an option when dining out."

She said that offering choice was not always easy. The restaurant takes extensive measures to ensure that all meals are fresh and that vegetarian and gluten-free dishes are prepared in an environment that ensures they are served without unwanted elements.

She said this can be hard work, but that hard work was one of the main reasons for the restaurant's success.

Jackie Cheung attributes hard work as well as perseverance to the restaurant's seven years of success. She said she is expecting the same type of hard work and perseverance to yield success in their new location with their attempt to offer a larger scale of services.

Her advice to newer restaurants is not to follow, but to set your own trends.

"Marco Polo does not want to follow anyone else's style. We never compare ourselves to others, we look at ourselves and find room for improvement there."

New kids on the block

Also located downtown but much newer to the dining scene is La Perla Tapatia.  

Located upstairs in the Reed Opera House, it has been open just over a year. La Perla offers a view that overlooks some of the shops in the Reed as well as an interesting view of the streets below. Many downtown diners will tell you it is a great place for people-watching and enjoying a good meal.

Marco Alvarado, who is the owner, feels that among the secrets to the restaurant's success so far is simplicity and freshness. He said La Perla offers a smaller menu than many establishments, but that in doing so they are able to offer quality at an affordable price.

He said that first and foremost he wanted to make dining at his establishment affordable.

When asked what struggles La Perla faces as a newer establishment, Marco said that keeping prices low and building clientele are his main concerns at this time.

He added that he was surprised at how well word of mouth contributed to his customer base.

"This is what brings customers into the restaurant," he said. " I see the clientele growing and I know that it is because of my customers. I see customers bring friends and family in and then those customers bring friends and family in and that is how it is growing."
Marco has recently started serving breakfast at La Perla.

"Starting breakfast is something that many customers have requested," he said.

Also located downtown, The Doug Out is one of the newest dining establishments to be found in Salem. Located at 635 Chemeketa Street, it has been open since earlier this year.

Co-owners Doug Naylor and Lori Frazier said that what makes this establishment special is that it is a small restaurant with a big heart. They will tell you that it is their attention to the customer that sets them apart.

Lori describes the restaurant as a cozy family-oriented diner. Although it is a newer restaurant, The Doug Out boasts an experienced and friendly staff and freshly baked bread, buns, and rolls daily.

The Doug Out also began offering beer and wine and they are now open for dinner.

When asked what the biggest surprises were in opening the restaurant, Doug and Lori cited the immediate need for change caught them somewhat off guard. They also cited the necessity of change as one of the biggest struggles they have faced.

Upon opening the restaurant they found that the establishment needed extensive remodeling they had not anticipated and they had to replace or repair much of the equipment in the restaurant.

They also said it had been a struggle just learning the day-to-day operation of the diner. Now that they are on the right track, they greatly enjoy the business and the interaction with the customers.

"You really do get to meet a lot of good people in this business," Doug said. "We have customers that have dined here since the restaurant was Maxine's, as well as customers that Shay and Nikki Rush, our waitstaff, have brought with them. We want to know everyone's name, whether they eat here every day or once a month. We find ourselves walking down the street and knowing almost everybody now."

When asked where the owners see the restaurant a year from now, they said they would like to see it expanded and perhaps even add a second location.

"I can definitely see a Doug Out II," Doug said.