A stable environment is essential to any successful viniculture operation. Grapevines, the largest fruit crop on earth, prefer temperate climates, with dry summers and mild winters.
Hot temperatures disrupt the grapes’ cycle of winter dormancy, and excessive humidity makes them prone to diseases and it dilutes the flavor of the resulting elixir of the gods.
“Weather is really important, especially late in the season. At the end of the year, too much rain can ruin the fruit,” said Mahonia Vineyards manager, Ferenc Ipacs-Szabó.
The vineyard is one of Wildwood/Mahonia’s eco-friendly operations, which include housing developments and a nursery featuring native trees salvaged from logging sites.
Although Oregon’s wine industry is not a major source of greenhouse gas emissions, fourteen Oregon vineyards and wineries, including Mahonia participate in the Oregon Carbon Neutral Challenge Initiative (OCNCI), a voluntary program where members audit their greenhouse gases with the goal of becoming carbon neutral.
“We track our fuels burned and measure the power purchased against things that offset it, such as solar and biodiesel, to reduce our energy footprint,” said Travis Henry, Wildwood, Inc. vice president.
Mahonia is powered by three solar panels and biodiesel, produced by the Salem-based SeQuential-Pacific Biodiesel, which uses Oregon-grown canola oil and waste vegetable oil from restaurants and food manufacturers, like Kettle Foods.
Biofuels have been the subject of world scandals, being deemed a “crime against humanity” by the United Nations special rapporteur on the Right to Food in 2007 because of their tendency to rise food prices as fertile land is used for fuel rather than agriculture. Biofuel plantations in tropical countries are also largely responsible for deforestation. Rainforests are often cleared to make room for African palm plantations in order to meet the world’s growing green demands.
“Our biodiesel is made from local, recycled cooking oil, not from unsustainable palm oil,” said Henry.
Mahonia Vineyard is also certified Salmon Safe, a program aimed at reducing agricultural impacts on endangered salmon. According to the Salmon Safe certification website, “Erosion and runoff from hill side vineyards can bring silt into streams, reducing the ability of native salmon to spawn and thrive.
The company currently uses a mixture of oil and water to protect leaves from pests, and Monsanto’s Roundup as well as flame torching to prevent competition from adjacent grass, according to Szabó. Mahonia grapes are Low Input Viticulture and Enology (LIVE) certified, a label that requires previous approval for chemical usage.
Their use of irrigation is limited, because too much water increases the yields but hurts the flavor, according to Szabó.
“We concentrate on quality instead of quantity,” he said.
In early May, the Salem Green Professionals group gathered at Mahonia Vineyards for a tour and presentation of the site’s environmental practices.
“We started the Green Professionals group to connect and learn from each other,” said Henry.
Szabó, a native Hungarian from a family of winemakers going back 150 years, guided the Green Professionals around the vinery.
He came to work in Oregon to expand his knowledge of grape growing and winemaking, and also to experiment with new ideas.
“I’m here to steal secrets,” joked Szabó, whose brother István Szabó won the Decanter competition for Central and Eastern European wines in 2006 for his Vyvylan winery 2004 Pinot Noir.
The brothers often share advice and help each other keep up with the latest trends.
“I talk to my brother every day,” said Szabó. “We do a lot of research. We’re pioneers, we don’t want to fall behind. Sometimes, we take risks.”
Szabó has also influenced Mahonia, whose 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir crafted by winemaker Aaron Hess has been aging in 50% Hungarian oak.
“I believe that wine is gonna be a big hit,” said Szabó.
Mahonia’s twenty-acres were planted in 1986 with clones of French grapes, purchased from the Oregon State University’s research center.
They started producing a small amount of wine, fifty cases, according to Szabó, but the success was so great, next year they’ll yield four-hundred and fifty cases.
“We have very good soil, so the grapes and wine are excellent. Everyone liked it. Our wine is so unique,” said Szabó, who claims he can always “taste the soil” of Mahonia Vineyard in their Pinot.
According to their website, the characteristics of Mahonia Vineyard are “effusive tropical fruit, apple, and pear aromas.”
“We have our own style. Our wine comes just from this vineyard, it’s not blended. I can always taste which [wine] is from our vineyard when I blind taste.
It shows very well on the pinot because it concentrates the flavor,” he said.
The vineyard sold out of their Pinot Gris last year in 3 weeks, and this year, the remaining supply is very limited.
“Good wine comes from good grapes. But if you’re not a talented winemaker, you can ruin it,” said Szabó. “Everybody can make a good wine once. But if you make good wine every year for ten years, you can prove you are prolific.”
Since wineries rely on building a good reputation overtime, Mahonia didn’t release their 2007 Pinot Noir to the market, a year when unexpected weather changes in Oregon affected the grape crops, said Szabó.
“It’s really easy to destroy a reputation,” he added.
Although Szabó is enthusiastic about his homemade wine, Mahonia is currently outsourcing the winemaking to third parties, because of the costs of the starting equipment.
After the tour, Salem Green Professionals participants met at the office and had a taste of Mahonia’s wines. Among the tasters was State Representative Brian Clem, who came to the event specifically to see this vineyard’s green practices.
“I sit in the agriculture committee in the House, so I’m particularly interested,” he said. “Their practices are amazing.”
Clem’s wife’s family has an orchard.
He noted the lower water usage compared to his in-laws vineyard, and the difference in fuel consumption.
“Most people use diesel, and certainly not cooking oil diesel from within 50 miles. This is the right way to do it,” he said.
“The difference is striking, impressive,” he commented. “They’re proving that this can be done economically. It took early commitment from an environmental standpoint,” he added, hoping that other growers become inspired by Mahonia’s success in the marketplace.
After tasting the 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir, Clem said, “It’s very good, and I’m no expert connoisseur. I like it.”
